The London Fashion Week Lowdown: Top Trends For Autumn Winter 2023
As fashion month draws to a close, hundreds of runway shows will have taken place in New York, London, Milan and Paris. But it was London Fashion Week that took over the capital from February 17th - 21st. Known around the world for its elevation of emerging talent, LFW returned with a jam-packed schedule dedicated to the late Vivienne Westwood.
Introducing a riot of new talent, merging brands outnumbered the more established labels. Capturing the interest of the fashion world, there were viral moments, celeb-studded bashes, and many, many trends that will no doubt trickle down to our wardrobes—so you'll want to start taking notes.
LFW Key Trends
If LFW is any indication, the next season of style is about to be one of the most interesting yet. Noughties fashion ran rampant and featured in over half the shows at fashion month, proving to be a clear continuation of the Y2K trend we first saw take hold for SS22. A trending theme on the British catwalks, Mark Fast showcased low-waisted cargo trousers, acid-wash denim and short hemlines in neon shades of blue, green and pink. Another fan of the naval gazing trend was newcomer Di Pesta. Celebrating all types of bodies, emphasising midriff mania, the designer sent her diverse cast of models down the runway in plenty of low-slung skirts. Another nod to nostalgia was the oh-so-preppy look. A London Fashion Week mainstay, Molly Goddard styled platforms and studded ballet pumps, tulle bristled from beneath narrow skirts, preppy blazers, and fair-isle cardigans, erring on restraint. A hot trend for AW23, preppy silhouettes also dominated the street style, with dozens of fashionistas spotted parading in front of the paparazzi.
SHOP the Y2K Trend
SHOP the Preppy Look
LFW Key Shapes
This season was all about body—from Conner Ives' micro-minis to Ahluwalia's sleek hooded silhouettes. But it was British-Nigerian designer Mowalola Ogunlesi who made a triumphant return to London. The 'Dark Web' collection encapsulated her idea of fashion's dystopian future with sartorial creations evoking the epicentre of capitalism. Models emerged in slouchy NY-style sportswear with futuristic elements, as Mowalola served several Y2K shapes and silhouettes with second-skin bodycon dresses and added hoods.
Offering a more demure alternative to boycon and micro-minis, it seems A-line skirts are back. After seasons of sleek silhouettes, full skirts were very much present on the runway, often reminiscent of the looks prominent in the 1950s. Pleated looks were seen at Eudon Choi and Emilia Wickstead, while Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha and Erdem opted for embellished A-line iterations.
SHOP Bodycon Dresses
LFW Key Details
Cut-out detailing dominated London Fashion Week. Dilara Findikoglu's AW23 collection, aptly named 'Not A Man's Territory', saw designs that dance between barely-there, lingerie-inspired outfits and armour-like dresses—all with a powerfully feminine vulnerability. Whilst Di Pesta, best known for her infamous 'wet dresses', debuted a stunning show including a number of barely-there designs.
Elsewhere, slinky, shiny see-through dresses in sheer fabrics were appearing. Huishan Zhang elegant see-through dress featured extra sparkles, while 16 Arlington managed to make their grey-hued snake print number effortlessly understated.
And for something completely different - animal prints, but perhaps not as you might expect. Pigs, ducks, chickens and even rats were present on the London Fashion Week runways this year. Christopher Kane displayed AI-generated prints featuring farm yard animals, while Daniel Lee offered duck-printed shirts and skirts. At JW Anderson, heeled shoes were made to look like cat paws.
Metallics and holographics were everywhere this year. Silver, in particular was the one colour that made multiple appearances at LFW. From David Koma's holographic jackets and boots to Edward Crutchley's chrome heels, the metallic colour palette injected fun and playfulness into this year's catwalks.
SHOP Cut Outs
LFW Key Colours
London no doubt brought the fire. Known for rebellious street styles and bold imaginations that often blur the line between art and fashion, it comes as no surprise that colour experts Pantone predict unorthodox colour pairings for autumn-winter. Every fashion week attendee saw red this season, but rest assured, it has nothing to do with our tempers. David Koma lined a red carpet for his show, while Nensi Dojaka cast her show space in a striking red light. The colour was prominent on the runway, too, with brands including Bora Aksu, Eudon Choi and more showcasing head-to-toe red looks. In contrast to the fiery red, bright yellow proved impossible to ignore. Huishan Zhang's zingy gown was primed and ready to dazzle at the Oscars, while Burberry's rebrand saw the sunshine shade wrapped up with canary coats and hot water bottles.
And if these bright colours are not your thing, take your cue from Rejina Pyo instead, whose entire collection brought together an unusual but beautifully muted colour palette.
London Fashion Week has wrapped for another season, and what a spectacle it was. While New York is known for timeless minimalism, Milan for rich, dramatic exuberance and Paris for super high-end designer moments—anyone with their finger on the fashion pulse knows that LFW doesn't hold back when it comes to experimenting. From electric hues to daring cut-outs, this season, we really went back to the year 2000. Reflecting on the state of the fashion scene, what trends will end up in your wardrobe?
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